Flightshooting has turned out to be a kind of drug to me. If there is some spare time I go for making a new flightbow or trying some new ideas for flightarrows.
Maybe you remember my trials on that gliding- arrow- thing, coming up every now and then in traditional bowery- forums. I have really given it a chance and against my expectations I had ended up 20% succesfully. Sorry, no post about now, but within the upcoming 2 weeks.
Trying gliding- arrows I got the idea that it is not only possible to laminate arrows or to build them up lengthwise( inserting a foreshaft and nocks, like some Native American tribes have done it). It´s also possible to insert a tapered strip of very hard wood into a given common wooden shaft, for to get a relatively light, but anyway hard and barrelled arrow. The following pic will make things very clear:
That´s it! I swear, this is the best arrow I´ve ever shot. I admit not to have shot an Alan Case tonkin- hex- arrow. Cause of the actually very cold winter, I will have to wait some weeks for making some flight- shots, but chronos I´ve done with this arrow are promising a real yards killer.
The building plan:
The making of is not to easy, but manageable and takes some time. First of all check out your wooden arrow shafts, I recommend cedar 5/16″ in diameter and 28″ in length, take the best you´ve in stock: very clear running through growthrings, no knots, physical weight about 150grs, for to end up with an about 180grs. arrow, that´s the best weight for a short flight bow with a drawweight of 45- 49lbs at a 23″ drawlength. Don´t shorten the shaft, the extra length is a must for the making of.
Look for the hardest hardwood you´ve, the inserts should measure about 1/3 of the 23″ arrow length plus 2″ for the taper(1″ in length at each end), a bit more than 5/16″ in width and about 1/16″ in thickness. Make the insert very accurate, I use my small bandsaw and a real tiny Japanese plane for the tapers.
Splitting the shaft exactly along the centerline seems to be very delicious, cause it is round. I fix the shaft on a blank with screws(that´s why the shaft is still 28″ in length), an adhesive tape or glue is thinkable. The shaft has not to be splitted its whole length, I split it from the nock side towards the head, stopping at about 2/3 of its length.
After the shaft is cut, the first insert could be glued in.
When the glue is dry, the second insert has to be made, same procedure, but it has to be done exactly in a 90 angle to the first insert.
The inserts at the top and the nock should be calculated well for to get the right weight. I´ve checked out the arrows point of gravity and then cut the inserts: the point of gravity should be located a bit towards the tip. After having done some test- flights I added a second shorter insert at the top perpendicular to the first insert. Beginning with this kind of arrows, this is a try and error- game, but with some experience this will be a very calculable kind of flight arrow. It is even possible to make hollow arrows with this method, when inserting 4 strips of hardwood about a 1/4 in thickness of the shaft, so there is a gap within the arrow.
For to end up with a perfect round arrow I´ve made the jig I was thinking of since years. A kind of selfmade turning machine by using a common drilling machine, some wooden boards and screws. It has turned out to be such helpful jig for every kind of arrow that I´ll post a making of soon. Anyway pics of it.
And the most perfect arrow I´ve ever shot:
Next BowXplosion will again be dealing with flightbows. Succesful flightbows need sharp recurves, so I´ll post a making of naturally grown recurves and a post focused on steam- bent recurves, inclusive a how- to- v- splice recurves.